Apologies for the late submission of this post. For the last few days – in fact, since I got back – I’ve had a heavy cold, complete with runny nose, hacking cough and the works. So after the delay, here we go!

The final stop on this journey was Gravelines, for the annual Fête des Islandais. Not really a ‘Willma’ event, as all she did was get me there – the luxury of hotel room with en suite was welcome after the vicissitudes of the journey. Here’s the write up I did for the Twinning Association’s Facebook page:

Once again, Dartford members were warmly welcomed by the town of Gravelines for their annual Icelandic Festival. We were treated to free food, accommodation, and entertainment by the Gravelinois; starting with the ‘Potluck supper’ where Gravelines, and their twins Biblis and Fáskrúðsfjörður, and ourselves, dished up their local delicacies.

The local festive market was on display, with the characteristic processional ‘Giants’ on hand, plus the local brass bands playing. Our mayor, Cllr Avtar Sandhu, was on hand to help with the unveiling of the twinning plaque.

Perhaps the highlight of the weekend was the laying of a wreath for fishermen lost at sea: a flotilla of small boats, along with the Gravelines lifeboat, set out beyond the shelter of the breakwater to lay the wreath in open seas – a reminder of the courage of the fishermen in taking small smacks across the ocean into Icelandic water for months at a time.

It was good to meet up with old friends from home, some of whom are in the same Book Group and Walking Group, others known through the Twinning activities. French friends too – Sghaier greeted me like a lost brother, while Dominique and Jos, the French writers, and Michel, the watercolorist, were at the first presentation. Michel had been to Iceland, and had recorded his experience in paint.

While it was interesting, the fact there were mayors from four municipalities meant that, once the translators had done their work, each loyal address had at least twelve outings. Each mayor had plenty to say, and on occasions the twinning chairmen also spoke. On one dinner, I looked at my watch and calculated we wouldn’t be eating until near midnight. Fortunately Hélène the organiser twigged early on, and allowed a course to progress in between each bout of speechifying. Must have been frustrating for the caterers.

The totemic giants had increased by one this year – Sigriður the Icelandic fisherwoman (in the red apron). We were approached by their association with a view to letting her process in Dartford next summer. I’m always struck by the enthusiasm and engagement the French demonstrate, with a little bit of encouragement from the municipality – Gravelines is under 12000 people. And Faskudsfjördur, for a small settlement, seems to bat far beyond its size.

While it was interesting, the fact there were mayors from four municipalities meant that, once the translators had done their work, each loyal address had at least twelve outings. Each mayor had plenty to say, and on occasions the twinning chairmen also spoke. On one dinner, I looked at my watch and calculated we wouldn’t be eating until near midnight. Fortunately Hélène the organiser twigged early on, and allowed a course to progress in between each bout of speechifying. Must have been frustrating for the caterers.

The visit to the print museum was a revelation, in that the exhibition had changed since last time. Gone were the prints by famous engravers – Picasso, Dürer, Doré, Hokusai and others – and in their place was a brilliant collection by South Korean artists. I asked the curator where the main collection was: they can only be shown for limited periods, to avoid light degradation. They had been placed into humidity controlled storage for the time being. Considering it’s the old powder house for the fort of Gravelines, designed by the famous military engineer Vauban, it’s an amazing resource.

After a dinner of mussels and chips, singing along with my German neighbours to Queen and Tom Jones songs from the lame-coated entertainer, I made my apologies and headed for the Tunnel.

What have I learned from the trip, if anything? In order:

• Netherlands is as uncertain for weather/climate as the UK: probably better in July. Dutch campsites very much like home: in the countryside mainly, and about getting in touch with nature rather than convenient places for sightseeing
• In September, seek the warmth, so head south. At least as far as Champagne, and maybe further.
• I like cities more than I had thought. I like the buzz, and the art.
• Maybe I need to explore Inter-railing to places – I like trains, buses, and hotels are growing on me!
• I like company. And my company, as a story-teller and as a listener, is usually welcome.

So now to start planning the next visits.